CHAPTER FOUR
Samuel Bowman, The Founder
While Samuel Bowman was building, what
was to be the first house in the village of Bowmansville, he
encountered difficulty in digging a well, at which time (August 29,
1819) he wrote the following letter to Mr. John Schnader, a
schoolteacher, the original copy of which still exists. "Leisure time
is very scarce with me, at present. In one sense I might say that
times, with me, have changed for the worse. I formerly used to work as
much as I pleased, and to quit whenever I thought proper; then I could
devote many hours to the muses and the study of useful sciences, (how's
that for the interests of an early 19th century Mennonite!) but now I
am nearly forced to labor hard every day. You know well enough what
produced this change. (I don't! I do know that by this time he was
married and had children). I am at present digging a well on the lot
where I intend to build a house on next summer. I have sank it already
to the depth of 28 feet, and have to sink it deeper, as it is so hard
at the bottom, as if art and nature had been combining their power in
forming it, and to make it impenetrable to human skill and force.
"It is my intention to keep school
again at the meeting house (which stood a short distance west from
where he was digging the well), but when I shall begin, is not yet
determined, but probably in the latter end of October, or the beginning
of November and to continue as usually till Christmas or New Year (what
a long school term!).
"I have nothing else to communicate
at present, my fingers are stiff and tremulous, and my head dull and
heavy. (the effects of digging in hard, red, Brecknock Township
sub-soil)."
I have quoted from this letter in
order that you might have a look into the mind of Mrs. Spotts'
great-great-great-grandfather, as he was about to build the first house
in Bowmansville, the house in which she was to spend part of her
childhood and early youth, and in the parlor of which I courted her
exactly 100 years after Samuel Bowman wrote this letter.
The story-and-one-half stone house
was completed during 1820, and Bowmansville was founded. A year ago was
the sesqui-centennial of the digging of the well.
Fortunately, we know a great deal
about the man from whose letter of 1819 I quoted above. In Volume 1,
1896, of the records of the Lancaster County Historical Society can be
found an important paper which was read by the Honorable A. G. Seyfret,
a native of Bowmansville whose brother was the village postmaster when
I was a boy. Although Mr. Seyfret had never known Samuel Bowman, he
informs us that most of the information in this paper was received from
John B. Good, who built the fourth house in the village, and who knew
Samuel Bowman more intimately than anyone else. "When Samuel was a
small boy on his father's farm in the Allegheny Valley his mother
noticed that he was different from all the other,children, as a result
of which she predicted that he would either become a dull man or an
unusual man. Little did she realize then that her second prediction
would prove to be the true one.
"Even as a child, he had a natural fondness for learning, and he soon
made such progress that he far outstripped all his schoolmates in the
little country log school house.
"Although there were no English
schools in the area and Pennsylvania German was spoken exclusively in
his home, he studiously applied himself to the study of English.
Because of his progress in the rural school, his parents enrolled him
in a special school in Churchtown where he learned to converse in
English. Here he studied surveying, which he afterward practiced
extensively and successfully for many years, and in which he attained
much skill and accuracy. His clear head and logical mind were eminently
fitted for practical geometry. His love of justice and equity, and his
high character for honesty and uprightness of purpose all combined to
make him afterwards the most successful surveyor in the northeastern
end of the County. In his library were found some of the best classi-
cal authors in the English language, (a most remarkable collection for
a Pennsylvania German Mennonite farmer's son during the first half of
the 19th century).
"From 1815 to 1820 he taught school
during the winter months. Surveying, scrivener and ordinary labor took
up the rest of his time. As a teacher he acquired a wonderful
reputation among his neighbors for the great amount of knowledge he
possessed and was es- pecially famous for his success in keeping good
order and governing his school.
"His life was one of constant and
unremitting toil of mind and body. He was a man of great power and
worth, the ideal leader and advisor around whom his neighbors flocked
for advice; the center of a community he founded."
During the year following the letter
about digging the well Samuel Bowman built on the southeast corner of
the crossroads, a one and one-half story house which was arranged for
keeping a country store. It remained a country store until Mrs. Spotts
mother, in 1947, after 38 years behind the counter, finally closed the
store, which had been in the same family for 127 years. Samuel Bowman
was succeeded by his son-in-law, Jonas Musselman. The buildings, is
presently owned by the American Youth Hostels. The original one and
one-half story building grew in three directions, east, south, and up,
until it is now the largest building in the village. Samuel Bowman was
appointed Justice of the Peace, December 10, 1823, three years after he
built the first house.
1. Daniel Rupp published his history
of Lancaster County in 1844. It is quite significant that subscribers
from Brecknock Township included: Samuel Bowman-the founder of the
village; his cousin, Daniel Bowman; Daniel Palm, the village
blacksmith, whose shop my father bought sixty years later, Isaac
Messner; Christian Schneder, Jr., and William Schneder.
Samuel Bowman, the village founder,
died during the winter of 1857, and was buried in the Pine Grove Church
Cemetery, south of the village.
His is the largest tombstone in the graveyard. On it is the following memorial:
"In memory of
Samuel Bowman
Was born December 1, 1789
Died, January 19, 1857
Aged 67 years, 1 month and 18 days"
Although A. G. Seyfret records this, the last
sixteen words are not on the tombstone. Mr. F. G. Musser, writing in
"The Examiner" during 1908 enu- merates the leading men in Bowmansville
at about the time Samuel Bowman died.
"Daniel Palm, John A. Seitzinger,
Samuel Lessley and John Renninger hammered out the horseshoes, wrought
iron nails, and tired the wagon wheels.
"J. Musselman & Son
and Richard Davis kept the stores of General Merchandise, and it is a
fact that it was the custom at that time for people to deal at these
stores on credit terms, from one first of April to the next, except
such farm produce as the merchant would accept weekly in exchange for
household necessities. Every first day of April the patrons were
expected to settle up their accounts, which they invariably did, but
usually at the same time started a new account to run another year.
"Elias Leinbach was the clockmaker,
and a great genius he was at it, as can be attested by taking a look at
the huge eight-day clocks constructed by him.
"Rev. S. K. Boyer,
Lutheran; Rev. Daniel Hertz, German Reformed, Rev. Jacob Moseman, and
Rev. Samuel Good, Mennonite, attended to the spiritual wants of the
people.
"Dr. Samuel Martin attended to the
sick and afflicted. Though not a graduate of any medical institution,
and having an extremely limited education, he nevertheless had an
immense practice. "Cyrus Messner made the coffins for the dead and
buried them."
When the Civil War broke out in 1861,
the village contained the following ten houses, built in the order in
which they are listed: (1) The Musselman store, (2) Martin Bowman
(brother of Samuel) Ist house south of the store, built in 1830, (3)
Daniel Bowman (farm dwellings) a short distance west of the main
street, (4) John B. Good, a nephew of Samuel Bowman, the northeast
corner, where my stepmother's parents lived, built in 1847, (5) Peter
B. Good, the northwest corner, which became the village tavern, built
in 1851.. (6) a brick house north of John B. Good's, where Edwin Kern
lived when I was a boy, (7) the brick house west of the Hotel, on Water
Street, erected by Jonas Musselman, and first occupied by his son,
Israel, Mrs. Spotts' great grandfather, (8) brick house on the
southwest corner of the square, occupied by Benjamin Lausch, the
village shoemaker, and his son, Reuben, the village tinsmith. This
building was later enlarged. Reuben Lausch illuminated the homes with
the first coal-oil lamps. (9) the Jacob Hoover stone house, which was
occupied by Michael Witmer, a butcher, when I was a boy. (10) the brick
house south of the Hoover house, occupied by John M. Weaver. This is
the house in which Mrs. Spotts was born. In 1832 a stone school house
was built on the southwest comer of the square.
During these first two decades the
village was known as Buckstettle or Bucktown. A mile southeast of the
village lived an old bachelor, Samuel Good. He was an eccentric old
hermit, the first of a series who lived in this area. His chief delight
was in a flock of sheep, but he had a singular hatred for any sheep
which was unfortunate as to have black wool. One morning he was amazed
to find a black buck among his sheep. He accused certain ones from the
village of having perpetrated the joke, and from that morning on he
called the village Bucktown, or in the dialect Buckstettle.
In 1837, the Federal Government
decided to locate a post offi-ce in the village of Bucktown. The post
office was opened in Bowman's store. Samuel Bowman was appointed
postmaster, the only office, outside of Justice of the Peace, he would
accept. The new post office was named Bowmansville, which name it
continues to have. The original mail boxes are still in the rear of the
first building, which Bowman built seventeen years before the post
office was established.
As the village grew one of the
eyesores to many of the people was the Mennonite stone meeting house
which stood on the south- west corner of the square since it was
erected in 1794. The building stood back from the street quite a
distance. In front of it were hitching posts and a small shed. The
meeting house itself was old and was not kept in repair.
From 1870 to 1880 the village enjoyed
a building boom and the real estate became too valuable for space taken
by the hitching posts in front of the meeting house. Under protest the
old stone meeting house was removed and a new one was erected a mile
south of the village during 1875. Even the hitching posts and the old
shed were never sufficient to accomodate all the teams that gathered
when, the former Prussian Lutheran, Jacob Moseman's turn came to
preach. It must have been quite a sight, during the pre-Civil War days,
when Moseman preached. Mennonite families from far and near gathered at
the village square. Members of other denominations would miss their own
ser- vices and admiring friends of Weaverland came to hear the dis-
course of Father Moseman. All the hitching posts were used, the shed
was over-flowing, neighboring hitching posts were probably borrowed.
There was, no doubt, only standing room in the old meeting house.
The Musselman family has, in their
possession, a deed, dated May 25, 1826, which describes the purchase of
one acre and sixty-five perches by Samuel Bowman form Daniel and
Elizabeth Bowman for $67.27. Elizabeth, Daniel Bownman's wife,
apparently couldn't write for "her mark" appears in the middle of her
name, which was probably written by John Ziemer, the Justice of the
Peace. This parcel of land surrounded the plot on which Samuel Bowman
had erected the first house six years earlier. The Mennonite Meeting
House on the Square is mentioned in this deed.
The Brecknock Township Tax lists for
the period of 15 years before the beginning of the Civil War report
that Samuel Bowman owned 29 acres, valued at $1015; one horse at $50;
and three cows at $24.
Jonas Musselman, Samuel Bowman's
son-in-law, had a brother John Musselman. In 1847, their father
Christian was a tenant on his son John's farm. At this time both
brothers were farmers; Jonas having 80 acres, valued at $1200; John 110
acres, valued at $1650. John owned 4 horses and 5 cows, which was an
unusually large number for any farmer in this area. Jonas sold his farm
in 1850, and moved to the home of his father-in-law. By 1852, Jonas is
listed as a merchant; the next year his real estate is listed as
"morgen", about two acres, the amount of land that a farmer could plow
in the morn- ing. By 1853, the Tax list describes Samuel Bowman as an
"Old Gentleman." In 1857 Joseph Musselman, a son of John Musselman, is
listed as a "Tailor", he lived to be only 23. By this time Jonas' son
Israel is listed as "merchant" having succeeded his father. The 1860
Tax list includes Jacob Musselman, another son of John as a "Laborer"
living on his father's property.
BOWMAN GENEALOGY
First Generation
Wendel (Bauman) Bowman ( -1745)
May have been in Germantown as early as 1706, settled with other Swiss
Mennonites in the Pequea colony 1710. His only daughter, Anna, was
married to John (Weber) Weaver, the pioneer of Weaverland, where the
Good brothers Christian and Jacob, and their brother-in-law John
Musselman, lived from 1732 until 1738, before coming to Brecknock
Township.
Second Generation
Christian Bowman (1724-1796)
Settled in Allegheny Valley in Berks County, 1737, where he built a grist mill.
Third Generation
Christian Bowman (1753-1809)
He operated his father's grist mill.
Fourth Generation
Samuel Bowman (1789-1857)
Founder of Bowmansville
Fifth Generation
Mrs. Jonas (Lavina Bowman) Musselman (1816-1861)
Sixth Generation
Israel B. Musselman (1835-1911)
Seventh Generation
Theodore Musselman (1856-1943)
Eighth Generation
Wayne K. Musselman (1873-1938)
Ninth Generation
Mrs. Charles (Lucy Musselman) Spotts (1899- )
CHAPTER FIVE
The School Fight Produces A New Mennonite Congregation
Brecknock Township was one of the last to
adopt the public school idea. A small private school house was erected
in 1832 on the southwest corner of the square. This school had been
operating a long time before Samuel Bowman started the village. It
remained the only school in the neighborhood. Mr. A. G. Seyfret
attended this school before the Civil War, after it had become a public
school. He reports that here "he started on the royal road of learn-
ing, with a Webster Primer to read, and a corn stalk pen holder to
write. During the four months the school was open, big and little boys
and girls crowded the old stone house, at least part of the term, to
suffocation. Now any of us survived the floggings, the overheated air,
and dust, is a mystery to me."
Among those who went to the 'pay'
school at Bowmansville before the free schools were established were
Baltzer Schneder and the girl whom he later married. Their son, the
Reverend Charles B. Schneder, sent the following letter to the Hon. A.
G. Seyfret.
"Last week during a brief visit home,
my father submitted your letter to me in which you request information
in reference to the introduction of free schools in Brecknock. He also
requested me to write and give such information as they were able to
give. Mother's mind is clearer on the subject than father's. They
remember attending the first free school that was opened in a house
still standing in Bowmansville. They do not remember the date. The
teacher was Mr. Samuel Hertz, son of the Reformed pastor, Daniel Hertz,
who lived near Ephrata, and preached at Center, Muddy Creek, Reamstown
and other churches. There was very decided opposition to free schools,
based very largely on the fear of increased taxes. Among the strongest
opponents were Isaac Kessler John Weis, Michael Weis, William Schnader,
my grandfather (should be grand-uncle), Amos Schnader, and others.
Among the supporters were Adam Seitsinger, Daniel Sensenig, Daniel
Bowman, Moses Bowman, and his brother, Isaac Bowman, known as "Der gla
Isaac," and others.
"On January 8, 1850, the school
and anti-school men met in Bowmansville at the school house under great
excitement and anger. The parties were hostile to each other. Blows
were threatened; the children fled from the school because the free
school teacher was thrown out and the anti-school men locked the door
and went home elated for this in their opinion was the end of the free
schools in Brecknock.
"Mr. Sensenig and his friends brought
a criminal prosecution against the rioters. Dozens of the antis were
arrested and hailed before the criminal court in Lancaster.... They
were to remain three days and then were allowed to go home by a
compromise effected in which all the costs had to be paid by the
anti-school men.
"The case was arbitrated at New
Holland on the 7th of August, 1851. The verdict was "no cause for
action", but the end was not yet. Elias Leinbach, the plaintiff now
experienced the uncertainties of the law and had to pay the costs. His
sons came to his rescue or he would have been committed to prison.
"This was not the end, for the
promises were broken when they got back to their homes where they
seemed to have more courage than at the county seat. A bitter
resentment existed against the leader, Daniel Sensenig. He was not only
relentlessly ostracized in business and social intercourse, but their
hate and vengeance went beyond that and he was sued for damages and
malicious prosecution.
"Some may wonder what part did Samuel
Bowman, the most learned man in the community, take in this bitter
controversy. He was entirely neutral, said not a word for either party,
but since he was well educated they took it for granted that he was in
sympathy With the free school people-many of his customers left him. A
.man who in the first half of the 19th century could read Pope's
translation of the Iliad and Odyssey of Homer in this community was
no,ordinary man. He had to pay a price for his intelligence and his
knowledge when the school issue became bitter."
When the Pine Grove Mennonite Church celebrated its 100th Anniversary the program included the following paragraphs.
"When court day arrived, Brecknock
Township sent a larger delegation to the criminal court of the county
than had ever been witnessed. The day was inclement with snow and sleet
overhead and frozen snow and ice underfoot. The defendants made their
way - a distance of more than twenty miles-on foot. Among them were
some of the sires and grandsires of the neighborhood. Most of the
"schoolmen" of the vicinity were subpoened as witnesses on the part of
the Commonwealth. These traveled in carriages. On the road the
carriages were said to have been neither pleasant nor cordial.
"The next important step for the
(school) men involved was to find a new Church home. After visiting
some of the new (Mennonite) churches in Montgomery County, they invited
some of the ministers to the Bowrnansville Community to preach for them
in their homes. They soon had overflowing meetings and were much
encouraged. In 1852 a General Conference Mennonite Congregation was
organized and regular services were held in the various homes."
Every time I pass the Pine Grove
Church I am reminded of the courage of the liberal Mennonites of
Bowmansville who supported the free school system, for which they were
virtually forced to leave the Old Mennonite Church. I am also proud of
the fact that two of Mrs. Spotts' ancestors were numbered among these
few liberal-minded Pennsylvania-German Mennonites of over a century ago.
The ecumenical spirit of the Pine
Grove Mennonite Congregation is reflected in the fact that members of
the Lutheran and Reformed faiths shared in the organization of the
Bowmansville Union Sunday School in 1862. It met at the Pine Grove
Church every Sunday afternoon during the summer months. This was the
first Sunday School organized in the Bowmansville area. S. G. Seyfret
was one of its organizers. A quarter of a century later, when the St.
Paul's Union (Lutheran and Reformed) Sunday School was organized, he
was elected the first Superintendent. Mr. Seyfret was still
Superintendent when I was attending this Sunday School thirty years
later. In 1922, he was given an honor medal by the Pennsyl- vania State
Sabbath School Association, in recognition of his fifty years as a
Sunday School officer and teacher.
Samuel G. Seyfret was born September
14, 1844. He was educated in the public schools of Berks and Lancaster
County, and at the Frederick Institute, one of the old time private
academies in Montgomery County. He taught school until he was married
to Maria Burkholder in 1872. For forty years he conducted a general
store in the village under the name of S. G. Seyfret and Company.
In 1896 Mr. Seyfret was appointed
postmaster of Bowmansville, and continued as such up to the time of his
death. He was the son of Benjamin and Mary Seyfret of Bowmansville.
Seventeen years after A. G. Seyfret
read a paper on Samuel Bowman to the Lancaster County Historical
Society, Mr. Seyfret, now the American Consul to Canada, wrote an
article which was published in the L.C.H.S., Vol. 12, June, 1911, under
the caption, "Bowmansville," in which he speaks of Bowmansville as the
"Capitol of Brecknock Township."
Mr. Seyfret recalls the summer of
1858, when the Donatis great comet was the startling object in the sky.
Comets at that time created a good deal of consternation among the
average people. He reports that "the older people would sit in the open
air night after night to view the celestial visitor, and predict all
sorts of dire calamities to happen, for which the comet was
responsible. The violent agitation of slavery at the time gave many who
were newspaper read- ers like my father, a subject to make war certain
with all its horrors as the logical outcome of the Comet's visit."
By this time Samuel Bowman had died
and was buried in the winter of 1856-1857 in the Mennonite Cemetery at
the southern end of the village.
In 1861, a large pole, surmounted by
a frame was put up on the corner of the Lausch tin shop; a bell was
hung in the frame. For many years the shoemaker or the tinsmith rang
the bell morning, noon and night, and also, at the death of any one in
the entire neighborhood. At the tolling of the bell for someone's
funeral it broke. A second bell was bought, but broke while being hung
into place. A third bell was purchased and placed into a new frame at
the rear of the old Bowman (later Musselman) store, where the custom of
ringing the meal time hour, three times a day was still practiced when
I was growing up in Bowmansville more than fifty years ago. This bell
is now housed in a small tower on the roof of the Bowmansville fire
house.
No township in Lancaster County
witnessed such exciting times as Brecknock did during the Civil War
period. The area was strongly for slavery. Many of the farmers were
densely illiterate and had no concept of the principle that was at
stake. But the inhabitants of the village were all loyal to the Union
cause.
Mr. Seyfret reports that "during the
exciting days of the Civil War the Musselman store room was the
headquarters for those who gathered there night after night to hear the
latest news from the front and discuss it.
"In the outlying districts there were
many enemies in the rear, who were openly opposed to the war for the
preservation of the Union." The Knights of the Golden Circle," or
better known in the North as "Copper Heads" were in a majority in the
township and across the Berks County line disloyalty was rampant,
drafts were resisted, the enrolling officers shot, election riots,
andintimidation of the non-resident or conscientious voter from going
to the election were frequent occurences.
"The Silver Hill rebels, who lived several miles southeast of the village, were a terror to all law abiding people.
"On one occasion Philip Huber, a
Knight of the Golden Circle and several hundred of his followers from
Berks County gathered at the village square, followed by much intense
excitement. A short tii-ne later Huber. was evicted from a neighboring
village.
"In the village the Union cause
prevailed. Following the firing upon Fort Sumter by the Confederates a
large flag pole was erected on the village green, and the Union Flag
floated from it every day during the war."
The first political meeting ever held
in the village was in the Fall of 1860; it was also the first time a
brass band had ever come to that locality. It was a Lincoln meeting. A
delegation of Republicans, headed by the New Holland Brass Band, came
by way of Terre Hill and the Dry Tavern (now called Fivepointville) on
a Saturday afternoon. The speaking was from the porch of Squire John B.
Good's house, successor to Samuel Bowman as Justice of the Peace; the
same house in which my stepmother's father, Frank Stover, had his
office as Justice of the Peace. An unusually large crowd had assembled.
The village had no more loyal or
intelligent citizen than Daniel Bowman, who,operated a farm west of the
town. He was an old man, by the outbreak of the Civil War, and fond of
reading. His country club hours at the Musselman store were in the
afternoon. He seldom came for the night sessions unless some
extraordinary news was at hand to be discussed in the evening. Daniel
Bowman was the oracle of the village club. He hadmore time to read than
anyone else, and hence knew more news to tell. He was a kindly disposed
old gentleman, and "we boys," Mr. Seyfret reports, "often imposed on
his good nature and his fine apple orchard." A member of this
self-constituted club for the preservation of the country by debating
the stirring events around the stove of the village store, who came six
nights in the week, summer and winter, walking more than two miles
through the meadows on which he traveled the darkest nights as safely
as one walks in the electric lighted city streets now, was Joseph Good.
That store room, operated by Mrs.
Spotts' great-great-grand-father, was the concentrated centre of the
village intellectual club. It was not only'the loafing place, but here
met the ideal rural man to man to seek and commune with his fellow man
on the great historical drama of the age.
The Old Order or Wisler Mennonite
Church was formed during 1893 as a result of the attempt to organize a
Sunday School in the Lichty's Lancaster Conference Mennonite Church.
Out of this grew the organization of the Bowmansville Old Order or
Jonnie Martin Mennonite Congregation.
During 1927 this group split over the
use of automobiles. Those who favored the use of cars, under the
leadership of Moses Horning, formed the Weaverland Conference, known as
the Horning Mennonites or "Black Bumper" Mennonites because all the
chromium on their cars must be painted black. The meeting house, one
mile south of Bowmansville is used alternately by the Old Order or
"Buggy" Mennonites and the Horning Mennonites.
Industries Fifty Years Ago
When the Centennial was observed in 1920 there were
two lodges, Washington Camp, No. 207, P.O.S. of A. and Camp No. 35,
P.O. of A. Sixty years ago the P.O. of A. lodge elected the following
officers: "Past President, Kathryn S. Kern; President, Katie Kern;
Vice-President, Annie Hoshauer; Assistant Vice-President, Lizzie
Kramer; Recording Secretary, Elizabeth Seyfret; Assistant Recording
Secretary and Financial Secretary, Jane Brendle; Treasurer, W. K.
Musselman; Con., Susan Good; Asst. Con., Annie E. Ziegler; Guar- dian,
Mary Musselman; Sentinel, Jane Musselman; Chaplain and Orator, Eliza
Brendle; Trustee, Katie Kern."
"There were three large cigar factories,
one managed by Imhof and Company, the General Cigar Company, and the
Davis Oberholtzer Company. There were three stores managed by S. G.
Seyfret, W. K. Musselman, and Harvey Weinhold; a barber shop by Harry
B. Wise; two restaurants by John B. Wise and Elmer Lane. There is also
a hosiery mill run by Mr. Seidel; a shoe store in charge of S. G. Good;
a saddler shop by J. L. Burkhart; a bakery run by Harry Harting; and an
undertaking establishment by G. L. Bowman. Abraham Musselman has a
marble shop, J. E. Spotts a blacksmith shop, a mill is run by Henry von
Neida, and a garage in charge of Howard Beam are included among the
business places. (James Good operated a Watch Repair Shop and a Jewelry
Store.) Herbert Kern, Harry Bender, Edwin Kern, Michael Witmer, Charles
Walter and Charles Snader are in the butchering business and attend the
Reading Markets."
Harry Wise, the barber, is the only one still in business as we approach the Sesqui-Centennial. Time does take its toll.
CHAPTER SIX
The Yellow Hill Community
(Brushtown)
When I was a boy, growing up in Bowmansville, there was a path that
came down through the fields from the top of Yellow Hill, situated
about two miles east of the village. Yellow Hill is a ridge which
separates Lancaster and Berks Counties, reaching an elevation pf about
one thousand feet. On this ridge, and in the valley be- tween it and
the next ridge, Laurel Hill, men have attempted to settle, without
success, for more than a century. The early settlers spoke of this area
as "Die Schweitz."
In W. K. Musselman's scrapbook I found a
clipping from a Lancaster newspaper, dated April 23, 1933, under the
title, "Rotting Dwellings Only Evidence of Remote Village," from which
I have taken the following quotations:
"Men, since the country was settled
have skirted the ridge, for in this final stronghold, nature suddenly
becomes vicious and vindictive and tragedy has befallen every
enterprise undertaken on its slopes.
"Brush Town, a little community of
nearly a score of log cabins has long since fallen the victim of the
encroaching vines and brambles which find a sanctuary here. Its houses
are today littered masses of ruins, their walls squeezed in by the
undergrowth and their crumbling foundations concealed by dense masses
of vines and creepers."
The map of Brecknock Township in
Bridgens' Atlas of Lancaster County, published in 1864, shows nine
houses along this ridge, making it one of the most thickly populated
areas in the entire township, with the exception of the three villages,
Bowmansville, Muddy Creek (now Fivepointville), and Red Run. At one
time this community consisted of a store and about a dozen houses.
These original settlers were a rough, isolated people, who hunted,
trapped, raised vegetables and small patches of grain in a few small
clearings, and were not adverse to stealing articles from the farms
down in the valleys of the Muddy Creek and the Conestoga. No outsiders
ventured into this area at night.
Leisure time was spent in making and
playing crude musical instruments. On still, warm summer evenings it
was a pleasure to listen to the music which floated down into the farms
of the surrounding valley.
The clipping referred to above
reports: "Only one person ever finished his life on its forbidden
ground. The original promoter of Brush Town was its last and only
permanent resident, and when he died, in 1893, friends from other and
more habitable sections came to his little cabin and carried his
remains to Chumhtown for burial.
"Robert Springer, venerable colored
slave, who died at the age of 105, was not a man without vision. Long
before the Civil War or before Abraham Lincoln had stricken slavery
from the list of things legal, he was inspired to liberate and to aid
his people. He visioned a colored community on the deserted ridge and
actually established it, but he reckoned without his people and without
the crushing influence of the ridge itself.
"Springer, who is said to have been
born in New Castle, Delaware, in 1788, came to the vicinity of
Churchtown soon after his master had liberated him to fight in the War
of 1812. When the war was ended, Springer, a free man, decided to
return to Pennsylvania where he would not again be placed in bondage.
"However, community life did not
appeal to him and he sought out the wild ridge to make his home. A
broken Conestoga wagon, deserted earlier by some other hapless
individual who paid the price for venturing into the reserved area,
furnished his first home and he lived there apparently quite contented
until the plight of other members of his race began to be the source of
study with him.
"From the time he came to the ridge
until he was about 40, he watched with aching heart the little
processions of colored people which wound their way with appalling
frequency to the lonely retreat. Something in their slow, defeated
pace, or in the low, mournful music they sang, or something about the
limp, awkward bundles they brought with them, stirred in him a desire
to elevate his people and raise them to new standards.
"The cemetery of the slaves was
located on the ridge not far from where he had taken up his abode and
he watched these little funeral processions for a number of years
before the idea of Brush Town was conceived.
"Springer picked the site for the
town and Wd out its one street. He built his own little cabin and then
invited other members of his race to come there and live with him and
help him raise a new town and a new order of civilization."
Robert Springer's dream never came
true. The ground was poor, the brambles persistent, and the children
deserted to find their homes in more hospitable surroundings. Springer,
alone, remained, watching his little domain tumbling down about him.
His funeral was conducted from a
church in Churchtown and was attended by more than 1,000 persons. No
one, white or colored, who ever lived in the vicinity attracted so many
mourners in death. A tombstone, marking his grave, bears the simple
inscription, "Robert Springer-Died March 16, 1893 Aged 105 years."
A score of years later a Negro family
found its way to the forgotten row; and made its home in one of the
abandoned cabins. The following year a white family followed their
example and the odd group began their segregated existence together. By
the time I was a boy about eight or ten families lived on this ridge,
members of whom used the path referred to above to do their shopping in
the two stores of Bowmansville. Because all of the families, but one,
were black, it was referred to as "Nigger Hill." Members of this later
community were frequently the objects of search by officers of the law.
The seventh United States Census for 1850 lists twenty-four 'black' people living in the Bowmansville area, as follows:
Name Age Color Occupation
Isaac Coleman................. 46...................."b"............. Basketmaker
Margaret Coleman.............35....................."m"
Lusta Coleman................. 19....................."m"
Isaac Coleman...................15....................."m"
Dennis Coleman.................12....................."m"
Abraham Coleman..............5/12..................."m"
Aaron Coleman...................2/12...................."m"
Rachel Green.......................54......................"b"
Jeremiah Green....................31......................"b"
Sarah Green.........................18 ....................."b"
Amanda Green......................16......................"b"
William Green....................... 11....................."b"
George Green........................29......................"b"........... Collier
Caroline Green...................... 27......................"b"
Catherine Green.....................10......................"b"
Eliza Green.............................9......................."b"
Samuel Green.........................7........................"b"
George Green..........................5........................"b"
Sarah Green............................2........................"b"
Jeremiah Atlee...................... 79........................"b".......... None
Charles Anderson...................40 ......................."b".......... Laborer
Margaret Anderson..................12 ......................"b"
Sally Jones............................ 50...................... "b"
under "colors the "b" represents black and the "m" mulatto
In newspaper accounts Yellow Hill is frequently
erroneously referred to as the Welsh Mountains. Actually Laurel Hill,
Turkey Hill and the Conestoga Valley separate Yellow Hill from the
Welsh Mountains, a distance of tenmiles. However, during the period
from 1850 to 1930 the black inhabitants of Yellow Hill were in constant
contact with the black people of the Welsh Mountain area, including
considerable traveling back and forth.
Because of their practice of
occasionally raiding chicken houses, smokehouses, and horse stables
they were frequently prosecuted by law-enforcing officers. My father
was a constable for a number of years. I can remember during my boyhood
days some of these people were kept in our house overnight in order to
transport them to the Lancaster jail by trolley car from Terre Hill.
They were not professional criminals in the strict sense, only petty
thieves.
On the other hand, some of the men
were respectable citizens who worked on neighboring farms or helped in
preparing wood to burn charcoal. Several of the men worked in one of
the village cigar factories, included Ephraim Dennis.
At the bottom of this ridge we bought
18 acres in the early 1930's, on which I erected a Sears Roebuck log
house on the bank of the branch of the Muddy Creek. Here our family
spent many restful summers. On about an acre of cleared ground we
raised vegetables. A spring several hundred yards above the house
furnished our drinking water, which runs through iron pipes, by
gravity, to the back door. On the front porch I studied and wrote
papers for graduate courses which I was taking at the University of
Pennsylvania at that time. Not a single inch of public road touches
these 18 acres; here we were completely isolated until Daniel O'Hagan,
a former government employee, bought an adjacent piece of woodland, on
which he built a two story hand-hewn log -house, where he now lives
with his wife and two small children.
When we spent our summers in this
isolated spot one of our local visitors was John Lorah, a hairy faced
old hermit with sharp blue eyes. I was teaching Biology at the time and
had brought out an embalmed fetal pig in order to dissect it in
preparation for a course in Mammalian Anatomy. After I was finished
with it I threw it in a trash barrel. While we were away over a
weekend, John came down to visit us and found the remains of the fetal
pig in the trash barrel. You can imagine the strange stories that began
to circulate about the professor's activities back in the hill.
CHAPTER SEVEN
~ The Musselman Family
John Musselman was one of the first three men to
settle in the Bowmansville area, arriving with his two brothers-in-law
during 1738. His grandson, Christian Musselman (1779-1855) and wife
Judith, built the second house in 1813 on the farm where his grand-
father had settled in 1738. This house is still standing; one of my
paternal uncles lived there several decades ago. Older persons in the
neighborhood remember the original log house.
Christian Musselman had three
children-Jonas (1808-1868), Mrs. Spotts' ancestor; John M., Sr.
(1806-1868); and Mrs. J. Adam Kessler. The family records include a
small notebook, which contains the appraisement of John M. Musselman's
estate, made August 4, 1868. One of the appraisers was his nephew, J.
B. Musselman, who was now operating the village store. John M.
Musselman's appraised estate amounted to $3007.47, including one mare,
$100; one buggy, $90; one wagon, $50; wheelwright tools, $63.72; spokes
and rims, $58; paint and brushes, $14.60; and one cow, $30. This list
would indicate that he operated a small wheelwright shop. The Musselman
Store Ledger confirms this. As late as 1867, he bought nails, paint,
wagon boxes, spokes, canvass, fringe and tape. The 1864 map indicates
that he lived on the family farm with his sons, John and Jacob. His son
John probably continued as wheelwright. The Ledger reports him
purchasing, after his father's death, wagon boxes, nails, putty,
sandpaper, linseed oil, rims, lamp black, glue, hubs, spokes, saw file,
amounting to $150.96.
Mrs. Spotts' great grandfather, J. B.
Musselman took over the store upon the death of his father, Jonas, in
1862. The Ledger, with which he began to keep records, is still in
excellent condition, with beautiful well-preserved handwriting,in black
ink, with an alphabetic index of all customers. The following items
culled from this Ledger of more than one hundred years ago illustrates
the wide variety of items stocked in a country General Merchandise
Store, as well as the prices that prevailed at the beginning of the
Civil War.
Sample Purchases Made in the Musselman Store
(August, 1862-Dec. 1867)
1. Hardware
Shovels and files .................................................. $ 3.03
Saw setter ............................................................ 1.47
Knobs and auger .................................................. 1.60
Varnish and oil .................................................... 3.22
Screws and bolts .................................................. 2.68
Pine boards ............................................................ .69
Linseed oil and lead ............................................ .77
Wagon boxes .......................................................... .99
Hogshead ................................................................ .75
Wood saw .............................................................. .87
Scythe .................................................................... .90
8 bolts .................................................................... .24
Iron and steel .................. ..................................... 16.54
Chains .................................................................... .75
Glass and putty ...................................................... 5.44
Keg nails .............................................................. 4.00
Wagon bows .......................................................... 2.25
Chrome green ...................................................... .25
Hub bands ........................ ..................................... 2.70
Horse shoes .......................................................... 2.85
II.Groceries
Molasses .................................................................. .22
Mackerel ................................................................ .39
Pepper .................................................................... .10
Smoking tobacco .................................................. .60
Sack salt ................................................................ 5.00
Cinnamon and pepper .......................................... .20
Fish oil .................................................................. .37
Bacon ...................................................................... 1.80
I lb. sugar ............................................................ .10
1 lb. butter ............................................................ .15
Veal ................................................................36
Corn Meal ............................... ............................... .56
Saffron .................................................................. .10
III. Farm Supplies
Clover seed ............................................................ $ 1.39
Fly net for a horse ..................... ........................ 3.47
Phosphate .............................................................. 10.32
Halter .................................................................... 1.00
Bag bone dust ........................................................ 5.16
Wagon .................................................................... 27.50
Butter Churn . ...................................................... 6.00
IV. Dry Goods and Clothing
Spats ................................. .....: .............................. .95
Woolen yarn .......................................................... .17
Velvet .................................................................... 2.96
Oil cloth and twine .............................................. 7.08
Camaze lace .......................................................... 2.30
Black ticking .......................................................... 1.34
Shoes ...................................................................... 1.37
Cap .......................................................................... .80
Pants and buttons ................................................ 2.70
Shawl and linen .................................................. 3.64
Cotton flannel ...................................................... .17
Muslin .................................................................... 1.86
Pants ...................................................................... 2.40
Hoop skirt .............................................................. .47
Stocking yarn ............. .......................................... 1.00
Wool ............................ ......................................... 1.40
Woolen yarn .......................................................... 1.87
Pantstuff ................................................................ 1.45
Gum shoes .............................................................. 2.00
Woolen coat .......................................................... 4.00
Thread .................................................................. .10
Ticking ................ ................................................. .51
Slouch hat .............................................................. 1.00
Bonnet .................................................................... .68
Suspenders ............................................................ 1.00
Cassimer ................................................................ 2.00
Gingham ................................................................. 1.73
Shrouding .............................................................. 3.75
Straw hat .............................................................. .22
Shoe soles .............................................................. .22
V. Furniture, etc.
Two chairs ............................................................ 2.12
Cupboard ............................... ................................ 8.00
Coffee mill ............................................................ 1.67
Pitcher and bowl .................................................. .43
Looking glass ........................................................ 1.06
(1) Sample Purchases Made in the Musselman Store
(December 21, 1876-December 9, 1881)
Ledger kept by D. D. Shiffer
1. Hardware
(2) 12 lbs. broomwire ....... ...... 2.16
(3) 40 lbs. steel .................. 3.20
Window glass .............. 2.24
1 lb. paint ...................... .06
1 knife ........................... .25
(3) 1 lb. horseshoe nails ............. .28
(3) 62 lbs. forged iron ....... 3.92
3 1/2 lbs. rope ................ .55
9 ft. fuse ........................ .09
(3) 1 lb. borax .................... .25
Hitching strap .............. .30
2 harness snaps ......... .10
Axle grease .................. .20
Buggy harness .......... 18.00
1 bucket ......................... .28
(4) 2 lbs. rock powder.................. .32
(5) Horse powder ......................... .40
(6) 2 bags bone dust .................... 4.00
No. 3 plough ................... 8.50
(7) White wash brush ................... .25
Hinges and latches ................... 2.00
Machine shuttle ............. 1.25
Basket ............................. .50
1 qt. linseed oil ............. .27
1 horse blanket ............. 1.65
1 band saw .................... 3.85
Curry comb ..................... .20
Halter .................................. 1.00
(8) Sewing Machine ............ 30.00
Umbrella ........................... 1.75
Window shade ................ .10
2 Crocks ............................ .97
II. Dry Goods and Clothing
2 rolls cotton ........................... .16
1 1/2 yds. veiling ............... .90
Breast pen ....................... .25
Handkerchief ................... .18
3/4 yds. stuffing .............. .31
4 yds. cassmere .................... 3.00
Shirt bosom .......................... .30
1 3/4 yds. Italian cloth .............. .70
1 1/2 yds. sleeve lining .............. .30
1 skein silk ....................... .05
8 yds. alpaca ..................... 2.00
1 fat ................................... .75
1/2 sheet bonnet board .............. .03
woolen jacket ................... 1.25
(9) 3 yds. shrouding................ 2.25
2 3/4 yds. tweed ................... .86
2 1/2 yds. lace ..................... .55
(9) crepe veil ...................... 4.50
7 yds. embroidery ........... 1.26
12 yds. dress goods ................... 3.50
(10) 1 whale bone .................. .06
3 1/2 yds. cheviot muslin .............. .43
(11) wick yarn .......................... .05
Thimble ....................................... .03
Shoe laces ............................... .02
Pr. gum shoes .............. .80
1 spool Patten thread .................. .45
1/4 yd. flannel ..................... .07
(12) 1/2 yd. velvit ................... .63
woolen skirt ................................. 1.37
1 spool silk ................................... .10
shawl ....................................... 1.00
(13) 21 lbs. carpet chain ................ 5.25
3 yds. muslin .............................. .30
2 yOs. calico .......................... .25
Pin's and needles ........................... .04
Pr. boots ....................................... 3.85
2 1/2 yds. gingham .......................... .31
2 dog buttons ................................. .16
Red shirt ................................. 1.37
(14) Suspenders .......................... .35
Drawers and hose ...................... .75
4 yds. cotton flannel ........................ .50
Cravat ........................................ .25
Cap ............................................ 1.00
4 yds. Jean ....................................... 1.80
2 yds. panting ................................. .50
III. Groceries
2 lbs. sugar .................................... .22
Slate pencil .................................... .01
1/2 bn. salt ................................... .30
2 7/ 8 lb. butter ........................... .80
Almanac .................................... .08
1/2 qt. molasses ............................ .10
1/4 lb. tobacco ................................ .20
qt. coal oil ........................................ .10
Cloves ............................................ .05
(15) Box Essence (of peppermint) ........ .05
500 cigars ........................................ 6.00
1/4 lb. pepper ................................... .10
(16) Assofoetide .............................. .04
Alspice ............................................... .10
23 lbs. chicken ................................. 1.84
Bible ................................................... 5.25
Tooth brush ..................................... .10
Snuff and candy ............................ .15
(17) Book on Mensuration ...................... 1.25
4 lbs. raisins .................................... .50
Luk ..................................................... .02
Bees wax ......................................... .04
1/4 lb. figs ........................................... .05
1 orange ........................................... .03
Rice .................................................... .50
1 oz. cinnamon ............................... .06
2 lbs. roasted coffee ...................... .64
1/4 lb. baking soda ......................... .05
(18) Violin string ............................... .23
Broom ................................................ .35
Globe ................................................. .08
Bottle castor oil ................................ .12
1 doz. cups and saucers........................ .80
1/2 doz. glasses ................................ .30
2 boxes shoe black .......................... .20
Stove polish ....................................... .08
Box crayons ..................................... .20
2 boxes matches ............................... .05
3 bushel vats ....................................... 1.05
Nut megs ............................................. .05
2 qts. sperm oil (for candle) ......................... .56
1 lb. tallow .............................................. .08
1 doz. eggs ............................................ .14
Minute book .......................................... 1.00
Bottle perfume ..................................... .22
Glassware ............................................. .18
(19) Box collars ................................... .22
(20) Blue vitriol ...................................... .03
24 lbs. bacon ....................................... 1.98
Notes on Ledger Items
(1) prices have decreased since close of Civil War
(2) sold to the broommaker in the village
(3) sold to the village blacksmith
(4 probably dynamite
(5) a medicinal product
(6) a fertilizer
(7) most people white-washed their fences, outbuildings, etc.
(8) three sewing-machines were sold during one month
(9) a funeral item
(10) used in corsets
(11) most people used kerosene lamps, but a few still made their own candles
(12) notice spelling "velvit"
(13) used in weaving carpets during the Civil War period suspenders sold for $1.00
(14) a volatile oil
(15) a medicinal item to be tied around the neck
(17) A book on principles of measuring
(18) D. B. Shiffer, who kept the ledger, played a violin. The item occurs several times
(19) celluloid collars, usually a dozen in a box
(20) a chemical used in dyeing and printing calico
There must have been many blacksmiths in
the vicinity. The following six appear in the 1862-1868 Ledger: Jacob
Beam, Henry Caffery, Samuel Hollinger, Daniel Palm, J. A. Seitzinger
(who purchased over $1,000 of iron and steel during six years), and
John Del Zell.
Products used in the Barter System
The Ledgers indicate that the following items
were accepted in payment for purchases made at the Musselman store:
butter, eggs, hames strap, tallow, segars, flax seed, lard, oats,
shoulder of pork, chickens, chestnuts, bacon, veal, pork, beef, calf
skin ($1.50), halter straps ($2.19), leather ($5.41), fly nets ($6.00),
keg ($1.00), shellbarks ($8.75), brooms ($5.15), baskets, postage
stamps ($1.00), black cherries, axe handles, and rakes. Credit was also
given for hauling coal ($2.00), plowing, weaving for Sarah, hauling
wood, "History of Civil War", May 6, 1863 ($2.75), threshing ($.90),
wool carding ($5.64), lock repairing ($.25), and horseshoeing ($.75).
The Ledger indicates that James Zell, owing a bill "left for unknown
parts."; also that Isaac Coleman, who received credit for baskets
($1.24) was "colored," probably lived in Brush Town.
Funeral Expenses in 1878
One of the record books also contains a
list of the expenses for the funeral of Jacob Beam (J. B. Musselman's
father-in-law), who was a blacksmith. The 1862 Ledger reports that he
made numerous purchases of iron, steel, nails, horse shoe nails, and
tools. The entry which follows is dated November 25, 1878:
2 1/2 yds. shrouding .......... $ 1.00
1/8 yd. fine muslin......... ........ .09
2 lbs. dried corn ........... .20
1 spool -thread ................ .38
Funeral notice ................ 1.50
apples ................................ .24
2 1/2 lb. dried peaches .... .20
3 qts. vinegar ................ .40
1 pr. hose ......................... .18
2 lbs. coffee ...................... .40
15 lbs. raisins ................ 1.50
Beef ................................ 16.00
lce .................................... 1.25
Doctor's bill .................... 38.75
Coffin ............................. 16.00
1 qt. syrup ...................... .18
.......................................... $67.35
This record would indicate that an
undertaker was not yet available; that the body was prepared for burial
by members of the family; that some craftsman in the village made the
coffin; and that a meal was served after the funeral.
In addition to operating the village
store J.B. Musselman, Mrs. Spotts' great-grandfather, served as the
financial agent for the com- munity. The Orphan's Court of Lancaster
County appointed him to serve as Guardian for minors in the community.
The notebook in which he kept records of this responsibility is still
available, indicating that he served as Guardian for at least, five
minors: Lavina Slate, to whom he paid $1555.56 on April 7, 1880; Andrew
M. and Lavina Gottschall, heirs of Jacob H. Gottschall (of Montgomery
County) 26 to whom he paid $1504.66 to each on April 10, 1872 and April
1, 1877 (when they became twenty-one); Susanna Kessler, to whom he paid
$379.98 during 1876; and Henry B. Von Nieda, to whom he released real
estate on May 3, 1884.
Previously he had served in 1859 as
Executor for the estate of his cousin Joseph M. Musselman, (1836-1859)
whose widow, Mary Jane Musselman appears in the ledger for purchases
made during January, 1866. She may have died soon afterwards.
Those who left the area kept in touch
with J. B. Musselman. I have in my files the original copy of a letter
which was sent to him from Leavenworth City, Kansas Territory, June 10,
1856. Leavenworth is in northeast Kansas, on the Missouri River, with a
population of about 25,000.
Leavenworth City, K. T., June 10/56
Dear Friend
Sir
It is a long time ago that I bade adieu to you and my friends around
there though the time may come that I shall be there again. I would
like to see you and converse with you and I would like to see you come
out here very much and this country. It is principally Settled By the
Indians now But there is Emigrants coming to this place Every day and
Settle out on Claims and the Indians will have to lieve, and the
purtiest cuntry here that Ever a man laid eyes on. and our town is now
about 2 years old and counts about four hundred Houses and five
thousand Inhabitants and it growing fast every day futher I will tell
you not to forget to answer this letter as soon as this reaches your
hands give me a full History of all the news in your town and country.
and Please give my love and best wishes to your Sister Lucy & also
to your younger Sister and let me know how they are getting allong. So
much from your sincere friend in Haste, answer Soon
A. H. Jacoby
Genealogy of the Musselman Family
First Generation (Pioneers)
Hans (John) Musselman (1709-1762 [?])
Anna Musselman (1712- ), immigrated 1732,Came to Brecknock Township 1738
Second Generation
Andrew Musselman (He appears in the Tax Returns from 1775 to 1785,
listed as owning 100 acres, presumably part of the grant to his
father.)
Third Generation
(1)Matthais Musselman (1763-1805) owned 190 acres, including a log
house and stone barn, probably the buildings created by his grandfather
(2)Elizabeth Musselman (1770-1830)
(3) Christian Musselman (1779-1855)
Judith Musselman
Christian
probably took over the ancestral farm following his brother Matthais'
death in 1805. Christian erected the present house in 1813.
Fourth Generation
(1)John M. Musselman (1806-1868)
(2)Nancy (Musser) Musselman (1809-1889)
(3)Mrs. J. Adam Kessler Jonas Musselman (1808-1862)
Lavina (Bowman) Musselman (1816-1861)
Fifth Generation(through Jonas)
(1)Lucy Musselman (1834-1925)
(a) Jacob Gottshall
(b) Isaac Kline
(2) Israel B. Musselman (1835-1911)
Sarah (Beam) Musselman (1834-1912)
Eliza (Musselman) Beam (1842-1927)
Isaac Beam (1836-1918)
Sixth Generation (through Israel)
(1) Theodore Musselman (1856-1943)
(a) Mary (Kern) Musselman (1851-1910)
(b) Anna (Zeigler) Musselman (1865-1933)
(2)St. James Musselman (1862-1874)
(3)Lizzie (Musselman) Oberhaltzer (1868-1942)
Davis Oberholtzer (1860-1935)
Seventh Generation (through Theodore)
Wayne K. Musselman (1873-1938)
Mary Jane (Burkhart) Musselman (1875-1955)
Ella (Musselman) Horning (1876-1964)
John Horning (1878-1958)
Eighth Generation (through Wayne)
(1) Lucy (Musselman) Spotts (1899- )
Charles D. Spotts (1899- )
(2) Mary (Musselman) Witwer (1902- )
Earl Witwer (1897- )
(3) Carl Musselman (1907- )
Myrtle (Stork) Musselman (1908- )
(4) Ruth (Musselman) Whiteside (1909- )
Paul Whiteside (1901-1970)
CHAPTER EIGHT Rocks
In The Bowmansville Hills
A discussion of the Civil War period
would not be complete without references to two natural wonders' in the
vicinity of Bowmansville; Devil's Hole and Rock Cellar.
Devil's Hole
Devil's Hole is a large pile of huge iron
stone boulders (igneous diabase) on the north side of the Yellow Hill
ridge, not far from our acres of woodland. During my childhood and
youth the young 'crowd' of Bowmansville frequently hiked to this
natural wonder on a Sunday afternoon. Here the magnetic needle,
attracted by ferriginous znatter in the earth deviates, in some places,
10-12 degrees from its true position.
During the Civil War period draft
dodgers and bounty jumpers; and, later, horse thieves, murderers,
moonshiners, and chicken thieves found almost perfect protection under
this pile of boulders. Those who know the secret entrances can find two
large dry rooms under these rocks. Both rooms are approximately square
and high enough to walk around in comfort. Many fleeing from the law
found safety here. Once inside, such persons were almost unassailable.
If the secret openings were discovered one had to enter headfirst,
which made it possible for anyone inside to dispose of the intruder
quickly. Much folklore has grown around Devil's Hole. Some of the
stories are incredible. But the truth is that countless men did escape
the clutches of the law by hiding in Devil's Hole. It is now accessible
to those who stop at the Oak Creek Camp, but few of these summer
campers realize the exciting story of those who found safety inside
this pile of 'iron' stone boulders.
Rock Cellar
Several miles southeast of Bowmansville,
on the south end of Silver Hill is a rock formation known as Rock
Cellar, a large cave inside a huge boulder. The mouth of the cave is
three feet wide and four feet high. Inside is a room, completely
surrounded by solid rock, ten feet wide, fifteen feet long, and eight
feet high. Drafted militia men hid here during the Revolutionary War
period, one was a cooper who followed his trade inside Rock Cellar. Mr.
C. G. Burkhart reported to Professor Alfred Shoemaker that a colored
family with four children, by the name of Johnson, lived in Rock Cellar
about 1875.
Devil's Hole and Rock Cellar
represent the southern edge of what is known to geologists as the
Triassic Lowland belt, north of the limestone
About two miles south of the village of
Bowmansville, on the top of Turkey Hill, can be found the remaining
evidence of a millstone industry which was practiced during the 19th
century. The last among a long line of stone cutters were William
Weinhold and his partner, Sam Reifsnyder.
Mrs. William K. Wise, daughter of William Weinhold, in an interview with a Sunday News reporter in 1962, reported:
"Father spent most of his time
cutting millstones on Turkey Hill. He started when he was 22, and
stopped in 1918. Toward the last he was cutting mostly hammermill
stones, which are smaller than the old-time grist mill stones.
"The older type might measure six or seven feet in diameter, and weigh a couple of tons."
Mrs. Wise reffnembers the painstaking
work of hand-drilling holes in the rocks, splitting them down, rounding
them off, cutting holes in the middle, and finally dressing the stones
in the geometrical pattern grooves which make possible the grinding of
the grain by the rubbing of the upper against the nether millstone.
These rocks are sedimentary, having
been formed at ocean-bottom level and later lifted above sea level by
geological upheavals. It is a conglomerate rock, favored by most
millers.
CHAPTER NINE
The 1884 Robbery
In the ancient world time was measured in
relation to great events. When the prophet Isaiah remembered his great
religious experience in the Temple, he recalled that it occurred "in
the year that King Uzziah died." Everyone knew when that was. We still
do this. Only recently I read a reference to an event, which was
reported to have occurred shortly after the great Blizzard, which
referred to the blizzard of February 11-14, 1899, during which Mrs.
Spotts was born.
For many years events in Bowmansville
were described as having been so many years before or after the Great
Robbery, which everyone knew occurred in 1884. One of the business
places in the village at that time was the D. B. Shiffer Jewelry Store
and Watch Repair Shop located about two blocks south of Bowrnan's
store. On the morning of Saturday, November 29, 1884, it was discovered
that the store had been robbed during the night.
A safe, in which thirty new and 22
repair watches were kept, was gone. When the word got around the entire
neighborhood was aroused. A posse of the Horse Thieves Detectives
Association of Bowmansville--Goodville-Honeybrook was quickly
organized. Within a short time the empty safe was found near the Pine
Grove Church. A broadside announcing the robbery was sent all over the
County. Within several days George Lippencott was captured in Columbia.
In his possession he had a satchel which contained many of the stolen
watches. Lippencott was a member of Abe Buzzard's gang. Lippencott and
Buzzard were arrested and sentenced to a jail term. One of Mr.
Shiffer's daughters, Annie Kready, died a short time ago. She had a
complete file of newspaper articles, photographs, and correspondence
describing this episode. Her file includes cards from a Mr. Supplee, a
Quaker from near Honeybrook, who at first defended Abe Buzzard, and
tried to reform him; but later gave up. Abe was an evangelist whose
weakness was chickens. He spent more than forty years in jail, made up
of many short term sentences.
The Sunday News of February 22, 1959,
carried a story written by Mrs. Anna F. Kready, Mr. Schiffer's
daughter, under the caption: "Eyewitness Tells How 'Buzzard Boys'
Robbed Her Father's Store in 1884." She was nearly 4 years old at the
time of the robbery.
A press correspondent who accompanied
the posse, wrote:"The whole region, so long terrorized by depradations
of the thieving gang, is intensely excited, and there is a settled
determination to take the outlaws, dead or alive. The feeling of alarm
is intensified (by recent robberies) and there is constant fear that
the desperadoes may take some shocking revenge upon the outraged
communities (because of Horse Detective Association activities).
"Several miles from the favorite
Buzzard haunt stands a Methodist Church, where the pastor started
revival meetings a week ago but the people are afra-id to leave their
homes, lest they be robbed or burned, or their teams be stolen while at
church. Some pastors of Valley churches have called upon their people
to rid themselves of these terrorists "by some concerted action."
Excerpts from a Lancaster newspaper
of December 1, 1884 report: "Early this morning the
Honeybrook-Goodville-Bowmansville Horse Thief Detective Association,
with 50 Brecknock Township farmers, all mounted and armed, resumed
search in the Welsh Mountains for the Buzzard band of thieves. They
intend to keep up the search until the outlaws are either captured or
driven out . . . Three teams stolen from farmers to convey the
Buzzard's booty, were found, only slightly damaged ... When Joe Buzzard
was captured, he was found hiding in a swamp, with three others of the
gang, among them Abe Buzzard himself." (The three later got away).
During the course of the
investigations, it was learned that Abe had tried to rob the J. B.
Musselman general store the night of November 28. The pet dog in the
store raised such a racket that the marauders evidently decided that
"Discretion is the better part of valor." However, a fruitless trip was
unthinkable. The weather was ideal for housebreakers-a stormy, blustery
night, when shutters banged, and windows rattled. Just a block away
wa.c the Shiffer Jewelry Store.
CHAPTER TEN
St. Paul's Lutheran and Reformed Church
I am certain that there was no connection
between the famous Robbery of 1884 and the founding of the Bowmansville
Lutheran and Reformed Church two years later.
German Lutheran and
Reformed farmers came into this area during the middle of the 18th
century. For over one hundred years they worshipped with the
congregation of St. John's (Center), the earliest records of which date
back to 1777. Muddy Creek (which originated about 1730-1732); and
Allegheny (Berks County).
Through the untiring efforts of the
Reverend Stephen Schweitzer, who was born in Germany, April 15, 1842, a
series of meetings were held. At the March 1, 1886 meeting a building
committee was selected. Several weeks later land was surveyed, along a
cowpath, completely surrounded by farmland. Sometime later a four-foot
boardwalk was constructed from the main street to the building lot.
Finally Church Street was opened. Officers for the two congrega- tions
were elected at a meeting held May 25, 1886. They were installed by the
pastors, Stephen Schweitzer (Reformed) and John Umbenden (Lutheran).
While the church was being built a
well was also dug. The Ephrata Review of November 2, 1886 reports:
"While Mr. Isaac Bordenhart was being left down in the well, which is
being dug on the new church property for the purpose of commencing the
well, both cranks broke, letting him down rather suddenly. He fell a
distance of about 15 feet but was not hurt." I remember this gentleman
very well.
The dedication took place on Saturday
and Sunday, November 27 and 28, 1886. At least three thousand persons
attended the services. The records indicate that "The Reverend William
Gottshall, a progressive Mennonite, presided at the organ during all
the services. The term "progressive" refers to the General Conference
Mennonite Church, with which the Pine Grove Church was affiliated.
The offerings amounted to $977.00. Rudy Brossman, the joint treasurer,
having so many pennies he didn't know what to do, so his wife said,
"put them in the half-bushel." This he did and in this manner took them
to the bank, thus came the saying, "Rudy Brossman brought a half-bushel
of peies to bank."
I was confirmed by Pastor Benjamin G.
Welder, pastor of the Lutheran Congregation, who served it from 1886 to
1921, a total of 35 years. Mrs. Spotts was confirmed by Pastor Jarius
A. Wickert of the Reformed Congregation, who served from 1895 to 1915,
a total of twenty years.
The
first annual picnic was held on Saturday, August 6, 1887 in the
Bender's grove, three-quarters of a mile west of the village, where the
picnics were still held when I was a boy.
At approximately 9:00 a.m. the
townspeople gathered at St. Paul's Church, where a parade formed. The
procession, led by the band, marched through the town, down Water
Street, where we lived, to the picnic site. There was an abundance of
food of every description. After the noon meat was eaten, games were
played, including a cakewalk, hymns were sung, and a speaker appeared
on the platform. This annual Sunday School picnic was truly a holiday
in my young life. As I recalled I was given 10 cents spending money,
with which one could do considerable buying in those days.
The first Teacher Training class
graduated October 22, 1916. Mr. S. G. Seyfret was the teacher. We used
Charles A. Oliver's Preparation for Teaching, a copy of which I still
have in my library. Both Mrs. Spotts and I were in the class. The
course consisted of 10 lessons. We were given a final examination. If
we passed, we re- ceived diplomas. This diploma is the largest one I
ever received during my academic career.
CHAPTER ELEVEN
A Famous Printing Press
During 1876, Franklin S. Stover, a
farmer living a short distance south of Bowmansville bought a printing
press, which he oper- ated in his home. Several years later the family
moved to Bowmansville into the house on the northeast corner of the
village Square. This house had been built by John B. Good, who served
as Justice of the Peace until he moved to Lancaster about 1860. Soon
after moving to the village Mr. Stover was appointed Justice of the
Peace, which office he held until his death.
About 1905 his daughter Lizzie,
became old enough to operate her father's printing press, which was
housed in a room on the second floor. During the next forty years
Lizzie Stover printed the notices of auction sales, picnics, and other
public events around Bowmansville. Following my mother's death, my
father married Lizzie Stover in 1910. Many times I helped her operate
the old press, which remained in her father's home. After her,mother's
death in 1945, her father's old house and print shop had to be sold to
settle the estate.
Edward S. Smith, a printer from the
city of Reading, bought the press and two years later sold it to the
John Wanamaker store in Philadelphia, The store presented it to the
Lincoln Free Press Memorial Association in 1953. This Association is
located in Vincennes, Indiana. In a letter to Lizzie Spotts, dated
February 7, 1955, the Executive Secretary reports:
"Your press is
in Indiana at Vincennes in the Memorial where there is no reason to
believe it will not remain as long as our civilization lasts." This
press, which my stepmother operated for forty years, was built by Adam
Ramage in Philadelphia during the period 1807- 1817. Ramage was a
Scotch cabinetmaker who came to Philadelphia in 1800 or before. He
introduced improvements in the earlier wooden presses by increasing the
diameter of the screw so that more pressure with less effort could be
applied to the platen through the lever. The frame of this press is
made of solid mahogany.
Today there are only seven known
Ramage presses remaining. Most are in Museums. One is in the Landis
Farm Museum. Nothing is known about the Bowmansville press from the
time it was built until Frank Stover acquired it in 1876.
I have visited the Printing Memorial
in Vincennes, and have seen my stepmother's press in its place of
honor. In a sense, it was she who really put Bowmansville "on the map."
When her possessions were sold, following her death, I bought a box of
what appeared to be junk. I knew that in this box were several wooden
blocks of farm animals, which were used to print farm sale
announcements. I remember playing with these soon after Lizzie Stover
became my stepmother. Someday, they will probably be sent to Vincennes
to join the printing press on which they were used.
The following is the text of the Legend on Old Printing Press at Vincennes:
"This old printing press was made by Adam Ramage during the period
1807-1817. It is said to be an outstanding example of sturdiness in an
early nineteenth century printing press retained down through the
years.
"Ramage was a Scotch cabinetmaker who
came to Philadelphia in 1800 or earlier. He made his press frames of
solid mahogany. He introduced improvements in earlier wooden presses by
increasing the diameter of the screw so that more pressure with less
effort could be applied through the lever to the platen. He also
substituted iron for stone in the bed.
"Ramage presses were highly esteemed
by small publishers. They were more portable than iron presses. They
had more resilience in operation and were easier to repair. Improved
iron presses of the middle 1830s gradually superseded wooden presses.
"Ramage was a director of the
Franklin Technical Institute, Philadelphia. He was born in 1772 and
died in Philadelphia in 1850.
"From time of manufacture, nothing of its ownership, use, or location
is known of this press until 1876, when it caffne into the possession
of F. S. Stover, Bowmansville, Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. "Stover
was a one-time school teacher, and was also a farmer.
He never printed a newspaper. He
picked up the art of printing sales posters and hand-bills. In this he
was assisted by his daughter Elizabeth, who learned to set type at an
early age. After her father's death, she operated the press for twenty
years until 1945, when she retired and sold it to Printer Edward S.
Smith, Reading, Pennsylvania.
"Elizabeth A. Spotts imprinted her
sales bills, "LIZZIE A. SPOTTS, PRINTERESS." Thus she stands in line of
many printers on the distaff side-Ann Franklin, the wife of James
Franklin of Newport; Dinah Nuthead and Anne Catherine Green of
Maryland; Elizabeth Timothy of Charleston; Sarah Goddard of Rhode
Island, and Mrs. John Peter Zenger of New York, who were never daunted
when it became their lot to carry on.
"In 1947 the press was sold by
Printer Smith to the John Wanamaker Store, Philadelphia, which made a
gift of it to this memorial in 1953.
"Elihu Stout is credited with having
used several Ramage presses during his printing career in Vincennes
extending from 1804 to 1845."
During many years my stepmother sent
in the local news to the Lancaster and Reading daily papers and to the
weekly papers published in the County, for which she received free
copies. Our home was always well-supplied with newspapers.
She also kept a record of all deaths
and burials in the community. Included in her records were the
following notebooks: (1) Interments made in the Bowmansville Union
Cemetery before 1896 (the cemetery was organized in 1886)-forty
entries, some had been previously buried in other cemeteries; recopy
from previous notebooks (1896-1966); (2) Interments made in the
Mennonite Burial Grounds 1896-1908; Interments at other places
1899-1909; Interments made in the Pine Grove Mennonite Burial Grounds
1897- 1908; Interments made at the Martin Mennonite Meeting House
1906-1908; snow and rain accounts 1900-1906. (3) Interments made since
1909 (picture of Hon. William J. Bryan (Democratic nominee for
president on cover).; Interments made at other places 1909-1924; (4)
Interments made at other places 1925-1933; (5) Interments starting
1934; (6) Interments starting 1949. When I recently went through these
records again I began to realize the concern my stepmother had for
keeping records for posterity (a concern which entirely few people
exercise), and that, for her, this rather tedious chore was really a
labor of love. During her last years she was afflicted with palsy. As a
result her last entries, made when she was almost ninety years old,
reflect the uneasiness of her hands. Before that her handwriting was
beautiful. One of her last entries was that of the interment of her own
brother, Isaac Stover, whose death came two years before hers.
CHAPTER TWELVE
Hosteling Comes to Bowmansville
It is peculiarly appropriate that in
Bowmansville, a typical Pennsylvania German community there should be a
Youth Hostel, inasmuch as hosteling was started by Richard Schirrman, a
school teacher who lived in Westfalen, Germany. In 1910, this son of
the same German stock from which the Bowmans (Bauman), Weavers (Weber),
Beams (Boehm), Mussers (Moser), Schweitzers, Goods (Guth), and
Musselmans (Moseman) of Bowmansville came, first un- dertook to fulfill
a dream he had long cherished-a dream to make a finer world for youth.
It grew from his association with his pupils in school-he hiked with
them, lived with them, talked with them. So he conceived the Youth
Hostel idea which has since spread over Europe and America.
In the United States the movement was
initiated by Isabel and Monroe Smith, who opened the first American
Youth Hostel in 1934. Mrs. Spotts and I visited the Smiths and this
Hostel in 1940. Before this the late Henry M. Woolman, who lived on a
farm in Valley Forge, and who had frequently ridden the Appalachian
Trail in Virginia and North Carolina, began to develop the Horse-Shoe
Trail, which now starts at Valley Forge and follows the ridges for 110
miles to Rattling Run Gap, north of Harrisburg, where it joins the
Appalachian Trail. Through the efforts of Mr. Woolman, by that time
President of the Horse Shoe Trail Club, the Bowmansville Youth Hostel
was opened in the autumn of 1937. During the first three years a total
of 489 hostelers stayed overnight. The Hostel is located in the store
which Samuel Bowman built in 1820. We visited it on one of our Field
Trips several years ago. Mrs. Spotts' mother was the first House
Mother, serving for ten years until she moved away from the store. I
was the first chairman of the Hostel Committee. I prepared the
manuscript for a small pamphlet, Bowmansville Youth Hostel and Traits,
which was published by the Pennsylvania Writer's Project, part of the
Works Projects Administration (WPA), in 1940. The Hostel including the
entire store property is now owned by the American Youth Hostels, Inc.,
with Mrs. Margaret M. Stanley in charge. During the past 32 years
thousands of hostelers, from many foreign countries and practically
every state in the Union, have spent, at least one over. night in
Bowmansville. During the 1968-1969 season 2023 over. nights were
registered. These hikers, bicyclists, and horse-back riders have
carried the fame of Bowmansville all over the United States and into
many foreign countries.
A recent issue of Hosteling Along,
published by the Phila. Council of the American Youth Hostels (Oct. 19,
1969), spoke of the Bowmansville Hostel as one of the most popular
Hostels in America.
Our grandson, Ricky Bare and 1, began
to hike the Horseshoe Trail two summers ago. In four and one-half days
of hiking we have covered 65 miles of the Trail, an average of 14 miles
a day. On one hot day last August we hiked almost 20 miles, carrying
packs. We are planning to hike the entire Trail.
During the year which ended Oct. 1, 1969, 2023 overnight hostlers
stayed in the Bowmansville Hostel, representing 977 bikers, 242 hikers,
22 horseback riders, and 767 others (who came by car or bus). These
2000 persons represented 18 diffenrent states, Puerto Rico, Australia,
France, and South Africa.
These 2000 persons were not Tourists,
looking for elegant Motels. They were mostly young people, looking for
adventure, and willing to stay overnight using the much more primitive
accomodations of a Youth Hostel. They probably have fonder memories of
Lancaster County than the average out-of-state, opulent tourist.
About seven years ago Mr. Norman
Weber began the development of Oak Creek Camp about two miles east of
Bowmansville. At present there are 300 camp sites. At least 10,000
different persons camped here during the 1969 season. The writer and
two of his grandchildren camped there one night several years ago. From
the camp it is only a short walk to the Devil's Hole described in
chapter eight.
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
A Twentieth Century Pioneer
In a previous section reference was made
to Brushtown, an at- tempt to create a Negro community in the
wilderness area of Yel- low Hill during the second half of the 19th
century. That effort failed.
Eleven years ago, Daniel O'Hagan, a
native of Washington, D. C. and a former government employee, being fed
up with the noise and fumes and the crowds of New York City, left urban
civilization to carve out a new life for himself and his family in the
woodlands near Bowmansville. He bought a tract of land adjoining our 18
acres of woodland one mile east of Bowmansville, at the foot of Yellow
Hill, isolated fr(nn modern civilization, although the Pennsylvania
Turnpike is less than a mile away.
Mr. O'Hagan built a two story
hand-hewn log house, cleared a small parcel of land for a garden, dug a
34 foot hand-dug well, (but it was necessary to drill deeper), built a
small log workshop, started several hives of bees, and keeps two goats
to supply milk.
Here, in a pioneer setting, Mr. and
Mrs. O'Hagan and their two children have escaped the stress of urban
life. Mr. O'Hagan first came to Bowmansville to participate in a work
camp. He was in search for freedom. After some time in Bowmansville he
decided that this was the place where he wanted to live in orderto get
away from "mental indigestion," and to live close to nature because "it
is one of the best medicines for mind and body."
We visit the O'Hagans quite
frequently. We find them to be perceptive, aware of what is happening
throughout the world; unusually healthy; most friendly and congenial;
and above all, very exciting people. Bowmansville is fortunate in
having such a family in its vicinity.
It's a long way from John Musselman,
Mrs. Spotts' paternal ancestor who built a log cabin in the forests
along Muddy Creek, at the northern edge of Bowmansville, in 1738; to
Daniel O'Hagan, who built a log cabin in the forests, also close to a
branch of the Muddy Creek, one mile east of Bowmansville, 225 years
later. Maybe history does repeat itself; rather, people may discover
that we haven't really made much progrgss.in two and one-fourth
centuries.
Resources
Edwin H. Colbert, "A New Triassic Procolophonid
from Pennsylvania" in American Museum Novitates, published by the
American Museum of Natural History, N. Y. Number 2022, November 29,
1960, p. 2.
John W. Price, Sr., A New Locality For Upper Triassic Vertebrate
Fossils in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, the North Museum, Franklin
and Marshall College, Lancaster, Pennsylvania (Reprinted from
Proceedings of the Pennsylvania Academy of Science, pp. 167-168, Vol.
XXX, 1956).
A microfilm copy of this will can be found in the Fackenthal Library at
Franklin and Marshall College, Lancaster, Pennsylvania. During the 16th
century the family name was Nieda, which became Von Nieda when an early
ancestor, who saved the life of an Archduke in Austria, for which he
was knighted, which gave him the right to use "Von" before his name.
This information was secured from Mr. Richard Willis Von Nieda,
Reading, Pennsylvania.
In the 1750 Tax Returns for Brecknock Township there appears the name
of Jacob Fanneda (Miller). This name appears in the Tax Lists until
1783, where it is spelt Voneta.
The 1790 Census includes the name Jacob Fonnada as a head of a family
in Brecknock Township. Ellis and Evans, History of Lancaster County,
Everts and Peck, Philadelphia, 1883, p. 674. The original Tax Returns
can be found in the archives of the Lancaster County Historical
Society. This information appears in the Mennonite Encyclopedia,
Mennonite Publishing House, Scottdale, Pennsylvania, 1955, p. 37.
Tax Returns for 1750.
Proceedings of the Lancaster County Historical Society, Vol. XIV, p.
236, (Hereafter, the reference will be LCHS). 'The writer recently
visited this house. In spite of alterations the west Fireplace was
still standing. The fireplace has a beautiful hand-carved mantel.
"Information about the early generations of the Schneder family can be
found in a small pamphlet by the late Reverend Charles B. Schneder, The
Schneder Family, prepared for the Family Reunion, September 15, 1929,
37 pages. The writer has a copy in his files.
"Ellis and Evans, ibid., p. 675.
"Jacob L. Beam, "A History of the Beam Family," Lancaster New Era,
September 25, 1919 (a clipping found in W. K. Musselman's scrapbook.)
"The Schneder Family, ibid., p. 35.
'The original letter is in the hands of one of Mrs. Spotts' cousins.
'LCHS, ibid., Vol. 1, 1896, p. 133-135.
"LCHS, ibid.
'The Examiner, 1908.
"The Lancaster Intelligencer, December 20, 1920, p. 11.
W. K. Musselman's scrapbook.
"LCHS, Vol. 12, June, 1911, p. 1.
'The Terre Hill Times, January 15, 1909, p. 1.
"Lancaster Examiner-New Era, February 17, 1923, p. 1.
'Taken from W. K. Musselman's scrapbook. J. B. Musselman's given name
was actually Israel, but during most of his life he used the initials
J. B.
"The presence of the names from Montgomery County was probably because
the Reverend Moses Gottshall of Montgomery County served as pastor of
the Pine Grove Mennonite Church, of which J. B. Musselman was a member.
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